We sell direct to you, saving you the markup of the middleman. These pumps
will last for 20 years or more by simple replacement of pump seals and/or motor
bearings every 5-7 years.
The motor is separate from the controller being attached by a 10 foot
cable (optional lengths available); and the controller has a 10 foot cable to
the power source. This means you can be comfortable while adjusting or
programming the controller.
Pond pumps, pool pumps, water feature pumps, marine aquarium pumps, spa
pumps, solar pumps, and industrial process pumps should all use the super energy
efficient adjustable horsepower Money $aver Pumps® -- The name says it all. Save half (50%) or
more of your operating expenses.
Maximize your savings with our innovative
dial that adjusts the horsepower, wattage, flow rates, RPM, and pump head to exactly
what your system needs. Would
you buy a car without a gas pedal? Why buy a pump without one? Flow rates go up
to 10,000 GPM (600,000 GPH) at up to 100 feet of pump head!
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1 HP
0-2.6 amps* |
3
HP 0-6.8 amps* |
We have the most efficient motors in the industry! We have the only motors
that you can tune to the exact horsepower you need or want.
- You see the results of the dial changes in the water flow in your pond, and the
money in your wallet. Savings can be $15,000 or more over the life of the Money Saver
Pump®; which are available in all horsepower's. The Creech Pump Index (the
GPM x Pump head / watts) CPI =
3.0 shows how much more efficient this pump system is compared to
standard pumps that usually have a CPI of 0.1 to 1.5. The higher the CPI
the lower are your operating costs.
This dial adjustment in a solid-state electronic controller, allows you to change
your horsepower, and compensate for any pump head requirement,
so it gives you greater latitude in pump selection. In other words, one
pump will fit your system perfectly.
Make money while you sleep! Turn your pump down, while still providing good
aeration and filtration.
- If
you had a choice between buying a pump for $100 that would cost you $1,000 a
year to operate, versus a pump that would cost you $1,000 to buy, but would
only cost $100 a year to operate, which would you buy? Would both pumps cost
you a total of $1,100 the first year? How about after the 1st year?
- Do
you want to add a new water feature or expand your pond, but you won't have enough horsepower to
run it? Do you have a dial you could simply turn up?
- Do
you know anyone who has bought a pump that doesn’t have enough horsepower to do
the job they want? So they had to use 2 or 3 pumps with double or triple
the amps; 1 for
the filter, 1 for the waterfall, etc.?
- Is your pump’s horsepower too low or
too high?
- Do you have a pump with more horsepower than you need?
If you have too much horsepower, then you are wasting amps and money, and could
actually damage your equipment.
- If
you pump is undersized its life can be considerably shortened. We wish we
had $1 for every 1/8 or 1/4 HP pump sitting in ponds that require much
larger pumps. By the way, the Money Saver Pump® when dialed down to
1/4 HP only draws 2.2 amps at 115 volts; 1.1 amps at 1/8 HP and 115 volts.
However, some comparisons between the more efficient Money Saver Pump set at 1/4 HP vs other
1/4 HP pumps ignore some very important facts. Namely, that the owner of a
fixed 1/4 HP pump is stuck at 1/4 HP winter or summer, day or night, big
party or away on vacation, while the owner of a Money Saver Pump can dial it
down to 1/5, 1/6, 1/7, 1/8 and realize even greater savings, especially
during the winter. On the other hand, if they're having a party they can
turn the pump up to 1/3, 1/2, 3/4 or more HP for a very short period of time
to wow their guests.
One thing is absolutely true: No other pumps are as efficient as the
Money Saver Pumps!
- Do
you have to buy a new "cheapie" pump every year? How much does
that cost over 10 years?
Remember:
- The 1st commandment of pond water pumps is amps (amperage) equals money
down the drain!
- The 2nd commandment is if you are not using a Money Saver Pump™ you
may be spending 5 to 10 times more money than you need to!
- With a Money Saver Pump® you dial your savings.
- If you can save $ thousands of dollars per year by switching to a Money
Saver Pump®, when would be the best time to get one?
If you only know the wattage of your pump, divide the watts by the 115
voltage to get the amps, i.e., if your pump has 1,150 watts, then 1,150/115 = 10 amps. This
Brand Z pump
would cost you $15,000 to operate over a 10 year lifetime; in Hawaii where the
electricity costs $0.20 per kilowatt-hour it would cost you $20,000; In
California the new rates would cost you $30,000 with the Brand Z pump. You could
save 90% of this with a Money Saver Pump®.
Most motors have an efficiency of about 60%; the motors in the Money Saver Pump® design
series are typically 85% and higher. How can they be so high? They simply use a better, but more
expensive pump-controller-motor design. This together with the dial controller reduces the amps required by 70% or more.
There are 2 ways the Money Saver Pump® design saves you money:
- 1st - they use specially constructed super premium efficiency motors. While
many motors have an efficiency of 40 - 60%, the Money Saver Pump® super premium efficiency motors
typically have an efficiency of 85% or better. That is one source of the
savings; and yields a savings of up to 30%.
- 2nd - you electronically change the speed of the motor when you adjust the
speed-control dial of the control unit. The power input
requirements vary with the cube of the speed change. So a 10% reduction in
speed to 90% dial setting, requires only 73% (.90 x .90 x .90) of the power input, which results
in a 27% savings in energy input, i.e., amps.
- A 20% reduction in speed to 80%dial setting, results in a 51% reduction of
the power input; yielding a savings of 49% in the amps required.
- These 2 energy saving sources can result in savings of 70% or more, with
the speed adjustment providing even more savings than the increase in the
motor efficiency.
- You can save a lot of money without sacrificing any performance.
- There is even a 3rd potential savings source although we do not count it
here.
Some power companies will give you a rebate for installing a premium
efficiency adjustable-horsepower motor. Since 2/3rds of the electricity consumed in the USA is to
run motors, if everyone switched to Money Saver Pumps® they
wouldn't need to build as many new power plants, and carbon dioxide
emissions would be reduced.
- New Jersey has a program that will rebate $50 per horsepower for this
type of system.
- Oregon has one that will offer 5% interest loans to purchase such a
system.
- Colorado has a program called "Bid 2001" that offers a rebate of $300 per kilowatt-hour
saved.
- These motors meet or exceed the new rebate levels established by the
Consortium for Energy Efficiency.
- This system has been proven by industry and power companies to
save a lot of money.
Consider the hidden operating costs, when deciding the best pump for your pond.
Before the introduction of the adjustable horsepower Money Saver Pumps®, pond water pumps have been the most difficult part of pond design, especially for amateurs building their first
pond. Sump pumps are often their first choice because they are cheap, but they
are very inefficient, and are not built for 24 hour per day, 7 day per
week, and 365 day per year operation, year in and year out. Also many of them
are oil-filled and will leak oil that can kill your fish if, or when, the oil-seal
goes bad. If your motor goes out, what do your fish do while you wait to get it
repaired, or replaced?
When you move up to a real pond pump, vendors will ask you what flow you
need, and at what pump head? Will you need a self-priming pump, if so for what
pump head? Will the pump be above or below the water surface? Then they will
show you Performance Curves that plot the flow versus the pump head for
different horsepower's.
Then, in order to calculate your system's pump head you will not only need to know the
water-flow, but also the length of your
pipe from the pond to the pump, the pipe diameters, the number of elbows, tees,
valves, and the pump head of your filter, Ultraviolet unit, heater, and then the
length of the pipe back into the pond, as well as the height of any water
features. See the section on calculating Total Dynamic Head and
the Creech Pump Index.
One of the services that we provide to help you choose the right pump is to
help you calculate your pump head. However, in order for us to do that you need
to describe your pond's plumbing system to us:
- What is the size of your pond in gallons?
- How often do you want to turn it over, or what flow rate do you want?
- What are the diameters of your pipes?
- Do you have a bottom drain, if so how many?
- Do you have a skimmer, if so how many?
- How are they plumbed to the pump?
- Do you have a filter, if so what size and what kind?
- Do you have a UV unit, if so what size or how many tubes or how many
watts?
- Do you have a heater?
- How long is your suction-pipe run from the pond to your pump? How many
pipes?
- How long is your discharge-pipe run from the pump back to your pond? How
many pipes?
- What is the total vertical height from the surface of your pond to the top
of the inlet back into your pond?
- Does your inlet simply flow into the pond or does it go through restricted
jets?
- Do you have a fountain, if so how high?
- What is the diameter of the fountain's internal piping?
- How many valves does your system have in both the suction and discharge
line?
- How many check valves does your system have?
- How many 90° elbows are in both the suction and discharge line?
- How many 45° elbows are in both the suction and discharge line?
- How many T's are in both the suction and discharge line?
- What do you dislike about your current pump?
- How much do you pay per kilo-watt hour (kwh) of electricity?
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Sales: 303-883-8000